Cooper Virtual Practice #2 Terresterial Dropper Dry

[Mark Hanes]

This one is simple any terrestrial pattern you choose for the dry. I really didn't want to limit this aspect since different regions and streams call for a different terrestrial to use as the dry. 

I do want to limit the water type to slow moving water that if possible.  This will work much better on tail water or spring creeks due to the warm temps on many freestones this time of the year.

Flies: Terriesterial and any color Zebra midge size 18 or smaller.

Approach:  From down stream and across.  (If possible stay out of the water all together)

1.5 hours over 50 to 100 yards.  Good luck!  I say we allow to the 20th of July to get this done.

[Aaron Laing]

Well. I gave it a shot yesterday, but I didn't bring the camera or a net (d'oh!).

Fished 5:30-7pm. Sun all day. Temperatures in the mid 20s. Water was very slow and stained. Depth from 1-2'.

I used a #14 Carpenter Ant pattern that I tyed up in a hurry and a #18 C49s Zebra Midge--2 variations; both black with silver wire; one w/ a gold tungsten bead and one lead wrapped w/ an orange wingpad (pictured below). Hopper to dropper distance 2-3'. The leader had a 1' backing sighter ending about 4' from the hopper.



I knew the stretch of frog water I was fishing was not very trouty, but it has pike minnows (aka squawfish), shiners and dace. The pike minnows are particularly good practice fish because of their quick and usually light plucking takes.

I worked upstream fishing a grid but concentrated on the margins. The angle of the sun at this time of day made the water highly reflective and even the polarized glasses didn't help much, but I was able to see the takes within about 20-25' of my position. Because of the local regs I cut the hook off the ant pattern.

I caught four pike minnows on the midge--three counters. I rose an additional three to the ant but I'm doubtful that I would have converted them based on the takes.

What I learned: 1) The hopper makes a passable indicator for the midge below, but having the hopper off a dropper of any length delayed it from immediately indicating the take below--a dropper connection "Australian Style" off the hook bend would have made a huge difference. I missed at least two fish because of this. 2) The leader length to depth ratio is important. I initially started out with a length about 1.5' longer than the average depth, and wasn't getting any action (except bottom). After losing my initial rig to a bankside willow I shortened up the hopper dropper length to about the average depth and immediately got into fish (this may have had to do with the change of fly to a different ZM variation, but I still felt the shorter depth made more of a significant difference. 3) This sort of fishing on that type of water is painfully dull.

Aaron

[Mark Hanes]

I have noticed that trout or any fish for that matter really don't move much for they food in these types of areas.  Most of the fish I catch using it are simply seen by the trout moving in any direction in the water or just seeing the whites of there mouth.  It is dull fishing but if you hit a section of slow water with feading trout it can be deadly since you can fish for them at a greater distance.

[Aaron Laing]

Mark,

I understand the principle and I'll use it when I have to... but man if the fishing is slow I'd rather be drinking  

Aaron

PS. The backing indicator was a bad idea, I needed to go without or use a slinky. A brighter "hopper" fly would have helped too.

[Mark Hanes]

Yeah I agree I can't even fish my local streams this heat wave has water temps getting into the 80's on my local freestones.


July heat and trout fishing usually don't mix.

[Aaron Laing]

Go west young man 

[Josh McFadden]

I've not made it out to this practice yet. Our river is covered up in sulphurs by the boat full. Can I drop a nymph instead of a midge?
Josh

[Mark Hanes]

Yeah I have not made it out either I say use what the conditions dictate.